THREE MEN IN A BOAT
PART 12
CHAPTER XIII.
Marlow.—Bisham Abbey.—The Medmenham Monks.—Montmorency thinks he will
murder an old Tom cat.—But eventually decides that he will let it
live.—Shameful conduct of a fox terrier at the Civil Service Stores.—Our
departure from Marlow.—An imposing procession.—The steam launch, useful
receipts for annoying and hindering it.—We decline to drink the river.—A
peaceful dog.—Strange disappearance of Harris and a pie.
Marlow is
one of the pleasantest river centres I know of. It is a bustling, lively
little town; not very picturesque on the whole, it is true, but there are many
quaint nooks and corners to be found in it, nevertheless—standing arches in the
shattered bridge of Time, over which our fancy travels back to the days when
Marlow Manor owned Saxon Algar for its lord, ere conquering William seized it
to give to Queen Matilda, ere it passed to the Earls of Warwick or to
worldly-wise Lord Paget, the councillor of four successive sovereigns.
There is
lovely country round about it, too, if, after boating, you are fond of a walk,
while the river itself is at its best here. Down to Cookham, past the
Quarry Woods and the meadows, is a lovely reach. Dear old Quarry Woods!
with your narrow, climbing paths, and little winding glades, how scented to
this hour you seem with memories of sunny summer days! How haunted are
your shadowy vistas with the ghosts of laughing faces! how from your whispering
leaves there softly fall the voices of long ago!
From
Marlow up to Sonning is even fairer yet. Grand old Bisham Abbey, whose
stone walls have rung to the shouts of the Knights Templars, and which, at one
time, was the home of Anne of Cleves and at another of Queen Elizabeth, is
passed on the right bank just half a mile above Marlow Bridge. Bisham
Abbey is rich in melodramatic properties. It contains a tapestry bed-chamber,
and a secret room hid high up in the thick walls. The ghost of the Lady
Holy, who beat her little boy to death, still walks there at night, trying to
wash its ghostly hands clean in a ghostly basin.
Warwick,
the king-maker, rests there, careless now about such trivial things as earthly
kings and earthly kingdoms; and Salisbury, who did good service at
Poitiers. Just before you come to the abbey, and right on the river’s
bank, is Bisham Church, and, perhaps, if any tombs are worth inspecting, they
are the tombs and monuments in Bisham Church. It was while floating in
his boat under the Bisham beeches that Shelley, who was then living at Marlow
(you can see his house now, in West street), composed The Revolt of Islam.
By Hurley
Weir, a little higher up, I have often thought that I could stay a month
without having sufficient time to drink in all the beauty of the scene.
The village of Hurley, five minutes’ walk from the lock, is as old a little
spot as there is on the river, dating, as it does, to quote the quaint
phraseology of those dim days, “from the times of King Sebert and King
Offa.” Just past the weir (going up) is Danes’ Field, where the invading
Danes once encamped, during their march to Gloucestershire; and a little
further still, nestling by a sweet corner of the stream, is what is left of
Medmenham Abbey.
The famous
Medmenham monks, or “Hell Fire Club,” as they were commonly called, and of whom
the notorious Wilkes was a member, were a fraternity whose motto was “Do as you
please,” and that invitation still stands over the ruined doorway of the
abbey. Many years before this bogus abbey, with its congregation of
irreverent jesters, was founded, there stood upon this same spot a monastery of
a sterner kind, whose monks were of a somewhat different type to the revellers
that were to follow them, five hundred years afterwards.
The
Cistercian monks, whose abbey stood there in the thirteenth century, wore no
clothes but rough tunics and cowls, and ate no flesh, nor fish, nor eggs.
They lay upon straw, and they rose at midnight to mass. They spent the
day in labour, reading, and prayer; and over all their lives there fell a
silence as of death, for no one spoke.
A grim
fraternity, passing grim lives in that sweet spot, that God had made so
bright! Strange that Nature’s voices all around them—the soft singing of
the waters, the whisperings of the river grass, the music of the rushing
wind—should not have taught them a truer meaning of life than this. They
listened there, through the long days, in silence, waiting for a voice from
heaven; and all day long and through the solemn night it spoke to them in
myriad tones, and they heard it not.
From
Medmenham to sweet Hambledon Lock the river is full of peaceful beauty, but,
after it passes Greenlands, the rather uninteresting looking river residence of
my newsagent—a quiet unassuming old gentleman, who may often be met with about
these regions, during the summer months, sculling himself along in easy
vigorous style, or chatting genially to some old lock-keeper, as he passes
through—until well the other side of Henley, it is somewhat bare and dull.
We got up
tolerably early on the Monday morning at Marlow, and went for a bathe before
breakfast; and, coming back, Montmorency made an awful ass of himself.
The only subject on which Montmorency and I have any serious difference of
opinion is cats. I like cats; Montmorency does not.
When I
meet a cat, I say, “Poor Pussy!” and stop down and tickle the side of its head;
and the cat sticks up its tail in a rigid, cast-iron manner, arches its back,
and wipes its nose up against my trousers; and all is gentleness and
peace. When Montmorency meets a cat, the whole street knows about it; and
there is enough bad language wasted in ten seconds to last an ordinarily
respectable man all his life, with care.
I do not
blame the dog (contenting myself, as a rule, with merely clouting his head or
throwing stones at him), because I take it that it is his nature.
Fox-terriers are born with about four times as much original sin in them as
other dogs are, and it will take years and years of patient effort on the part
of us Christians to bring about any appreciable reformation in the rowdiness of
the fox-terrier nature.
I remember
being in the lobby of the Haymarket Stores one day, and all round about me were
dogs, waiting for the return of their owners, who were shopping inside.
There were a mastiff, and one or two collies, and a St. Bernard, a few
retrievers and Newfoundlands, a boar-hound, a French poodle, with plenty of
hair round its head, but mangy about the middle; a bull-dog, a few Lowther
Arcade sort of animals, about the size of rats, and a couple of Yorkshire
tykes.
There they
sat, patient, good, and thoughtful. A solemn peacefulness seemed to reign
in that lobby. An air of calmness and resignation—of gentle sadness
pervaded the room.
Then a
sweet young lady entered, leading a meek-looking little fox-terrier, and left
him, chained up there, between the bull-dog and the poodle. He sat and
looked about him for a minute. Then he cast up his eyes to the ceiling,
and seemed, judging from his expression, to be thinking of his mother.
Then he yawned. Then he looked round at the other dogs, all silent,
grave, and dignified.
He looked
at the bull-dog, sleeping dreamlessly on his right. He looked at the
poodle, erect and haughty, on his left. Then, without a word of warning,
without the shadow of a provocation, he bit that poodle’s near fore-leg, and a
yelp of agony rang through the quiet shades of that lobby.
The result
of his first experiment seemed highly satisfactory to him, and he determined to
go on and make things lively all round. He sprang over the poodle and
vigorously attacked a collie, and the collie woke up, and immediately commenced
a fierce and noisy contest with the poodle. Then Foxey came back to his
own place, and caught the bull-dog by the ear, and tried to throw him away; and
the bull-dog, a curiously impartial animal, went for everything he could reach,
including the hall-porter, which gave that dear little terrier the opportunity
to enjoy an uninterrupted fight of his own with an equally willing Yorkshire
tyke.
Anyone who
knows canine nature need hardly, be told that, by this time, all the other dogs
in the place were fighting as if their hearths and homes depended on the
fray. The big dogs fought each other indiscriminately; and the little
dogs fought among themselves, and filled up their spare time by biting the legs
of the big dogs.
The whole
lobby was a perfect pandemonium, and the din was terrific. A crowd
assembled outside in the Haymarket, and asked if it was a vestry meeting; or,
if not, who was being murdered, and why? Men came with poles and ropes,
and tried to separate the dogs, and the police were sent for.
And in the
midst of the riot that sweet young lady returned, and snatched up that sweet
little dog of hers (he had laid the tyke up for a month, and had on the
expression, now, of a new-born lamb) into her arms, and kissed him, and asked
him if he was killed, and what those great nasty brutes of dogs had been doing
to him; and he nestled up against her, and gazed up into her face with a look
that seemed to say: “Oh, I’m so glad you’ve come to take me away from this
disgraceful scene!”
She said
that the people at the Stores had no right to allow great savage things like
those other dogs to be put with respectable people’s dogs, and that she had a
great mind to summon somebody.
Such is
the nature of fox-terriers; and, therefore, I do not blame Montmorency for his
tendency to row with cats; but he wished he had not given way to it that
morning.
We were,
as I have said, returning from a dip, and half-way up the High Street a cat
darted out from one of the houses in front of us, and began to trot across the
road. Montmorency gave a cry of joy—the cry of a stern warrior who sees
his enemy given over to his hands—the sort of cry Cromwell might have uttered
when the Scots came down the hill—and flew after his prey.
His victim
was a large black Tom. I never saw a larger cat, nor a more
disreputable-looking cat. It had lost half its tail, one of its ears, and
a fairly appreciable proportion of its nose. It was a long,
sinewy-looking animal. It had a calm, contented air about it.
Montmorency
went for that poor cat at the rate of twenty miles an hour; but the cat did not
hurry up—did not seem to have grasped the idea that its life was in
danger. It trotted quietly on until its would-be assassin was within a
yard of it, and then it turned round and sat down in the middle of the road,
and looked at Montmorency with a gentle, inquiring expression, that said:
“Yes!
You want me?”
Montmorency
does not lack pluck; but there was something about the look of that cat that
might have chilled the heart of the boldest dog. He stopped abruptly, and
looked back at Tom.
Neither
spoke; but the conversation that one could imagine was clearly as follows:—
The Cat: “Can I do
anything for you?”
Montmorency: “No—no,
thanks.”
The Cat: “Don’t you mind
speaking, if you really want anything, you know.”
Montmorency (backing
down the High Street): “Oh, no—not at all—certainly—don’t you
trouble. I—I am afraid I’ve made a mistake. I thought I knew
you. Sorry I disturbed you.”
The Cat: “Not at all—quite
a pleasure. Sure you don’t want anything, now?”
Montmorency (still
backing): “Not at all, thanks—not at all—very kind of you. Good
morning.”
The Cat: “Good-morning.”
Then the
cat rose, and continued his trot; and Montmorency, fitting what he calls his
tail carefully into its groove, came back to us, and took up an unimportant
position in the rear.
To this
day, if you say the word “Cats!” to Montmorency, he will visibly shrink and
look up piteously at you, as if to say:
“Please
don’t.”
We did our
marketing after breakfast, and revictualled the boat for three days.
George said we ought to take vegetables—that it was unhealthy not to eat
vegetables. He said they were easy enough to cook, and that he would see
to that; so we got ten pounds of potatoes, a bushel of peas, and a few
cabbages. We got a beefsteak pie, a couple of gooseberry tarts, and a leg
of mutton from the hotel; and fruit, and cakes, and bread and butter, and jam,
and bacon and eggs, and other things we foraged round about the town for.
Our
departure from Marlow I regard as one of our greatest successes. It was
dignified and impressive, without being ostentatious. We had insisted at
all the shops we had been to that the things should be sent with us then and
there. None of your “Yes, sir, I will send them off at once: the boy will
be down there before you are, sir!” and then fooling about on the
landing-stage, and going back to the shop twice to have a row about them, for
us. We waited while the basket was packed, and took the boy with us.
We went to
a good many shops, adopting this principle at each one; and the consequence was
that, by the time we had finished, we had as fine a collection of boys with
baskets following us around as heart could desire; and our final march down the
middle of the High Street, to the river, must have been as imposing a spectacle
as Marlow had seen for many a long day.
The order
of the procession was as follows:—
Montmorency,
carrying a stick.
Two disreputable-looking curs, friends of Montmorency’s.
George, carrying coats and rugs, and smoking a short pipe.
Harris, trying to walk with easy grace,
while carrying a bulged-out Gladstone bag in one hand
and a bottle of lime-juice in the other.
Greengrocer’s boy and baker’s boy,
with baskets.
Boots from the hotel, carrying hamper.
Confectioner’s boy, with basket.
Grocer’s boy, with basket.
Long-haired dog.
Cheesemonger’s boy, with basket.
Odd man carrying a bag.
Bosom companion of odd man, with his hands in his pockets,
smoking a short clay.
Fruiterer’s boy, with basket.
Myself, carrying three hats and a pair of boots,
and trying to look as if I didn’t know it.
Six small boys, and four stray dogs.
Two disreputable-looking curs, friends of Montmorency’s.
George, carrying coats and rugs, and smoking a short pipe.
Harris, trying to walk with easy grace,
while carrying a bulged-out Gladstone bag in one hand
and a bottle of lime-juice in the other.
Greengrocer’s boy and baker’s boy,
with baskets.
Boots from the hotel, carrying hamper.
Confectioner’s boy, with basket.
Grocer’s boy, with basket.
Long-haired dog.
Cheesemonger’s boy, with basket.
Odd man carrying a bag.
Bosom companion of odd man, with his hands in his pockets,
smoking a short clay.
Fruiterer’s boy, with basket.
Myself, carrying three hats and a pair of boots,
and trying to look as if I didn’t know it.
Six small boys, and four stray dogs.
When we
got down to the landing-stage, the boatman said:
“Let me
see, sir; was yours a steam-launch or a house-boat?”
On our
informing him it was a double-sculling skiff, he seemed surprised.
We had a
good deal of trouble with steam launches that morning. It was just before
the Henley week, and they were going up in large numbers; some by themselves,
some towing houseboats. I do hate steam launches: I suppose every rowing
man does. I never see a steam launch but I feel I should like to lure it
to a lonely part of the river, and there, in the silence and the solitude,
strangle it.
There is a
blatant bumptiousness about a steam launch that has the knack of rousing every
evil instinct in my nature, and I yearn for the good old days, when you could
go about and tell people what you thought of them with a hatchet and a bow and
arrows. The expression on the face of the man who, with his hands in his
pockets, stands by the stern, smoking a cigar, is sufficient to excuse a breach
of the peace by itself; and the lordly whistle for you to get out of the way
would, I am confident, ensure a verdict of “justifiable homicide” from any jury
of river men.
They used
to have to whistle for us to get out of their way. If I may do so,
without appearing boastful, I think I can honestly say that our one small boat,
during that week, caused more annoyance and delay and aggravation to the steam
launches that we came across than all the other craft on the river put
together.
“Steam
launch, coming!” one of us would cry out, on sighting the enemy in the
distance; and, in an instant, everything was got ready to receive her. I
would take the lines, and Harris and George would sit down beside me, all of us
with our backs to the launch, and the boat would drift out quietly into
mid-stream.
On would
come the launch, whistling, and on we would go, drifting. At about a
hundred yards off, she would start whistling like mad, and the people would
come and lean over the side, and roar at us; but we never heard them!
Harris would be telling us an anecdote about his mother, and George and I would
not have missed a word of it for worlds.
Then that
launch would give one final shriek of a whistle that would nearly burst the
boiler, and she would reverse her engines, and blow off steam, and swing round
and get aground; everyone on board of it would rush to the bow and yell at us,
and the people on the bank would stand and shout to us, and all the other
passing boats would stop and join in, till the whole river for miles up and
down was in a state of frantic commotion. And then Harris would break off
in the most interesting part of his narrative, and look up with mild surprise,
and say to George:
“Why,
George, bless me, if here isn’t a steam launch!”
And George
would answer:
“Well, do
you know, I thought I heard something!”
Upon which
we would get nervous and confused, and not know how to get the boat out of the
way, and the people in the launch would crowd round and instruct us:
“Pull your
right—you, you idiot! back with your left. No, not you—the other
one—leave the lines alone, can’t you—now, both together. NOT that
way. Oh, you—!”
Then they
would lower a boat and come to our assistance; and, after quarter of an hour’s
effort, would get us clean out of their way, so that they could go on; and we
would thank them so much, and ask them to give us a tow. But they never
would.
Another
good way we discovered of irritating the aristocratic type of steam launch, was
to mistake them for a beanfeast, and ask them if they were Messrs. Cubit’s lot
or the Bermondsey Good Templars, and could they lend us a saucepan.
Old
ladies, not accustomed to the river, are always intensely nervous of steam
launches. I remember going up once from Staines to Windsor—a stretch of
water peculiarly rich in these mechanical monstrosities—with a party containing
three ladies of this description. It was very exciting. At the
first glimpse of every steam launch that came in view, they insisted on landing
and sitting down on the bank until it was out of sight again. They said
they were very sorry, but that they owed it to their families not to be
fool-hardy.
We found
ourselves short of water at Hambledon Lock; so we took our jar and went up to
the lock-keeper’s house to beg for some.
George was
our spokesman. He put on a winning smile, and said:
“Oh,
please could you spare us a little water?”
“Certainly,”
replied the old gentleman; “take as much as you want, and leave the rest.”
“Thank you
so much,” murmured George, looking about him. “Where—where do you keep
it?”
“It’s
always in the same place my boy,” was the stolid reply: “just behind you.”
“I don’t
see it,” said George, turning round.
“Why,
bless us, where’s your eyes?” was the man’s comment, as he twisted George round
and pointed up and down the stream. “There’s enough of it to see, ain’t
there?”
“Oh!” exclaimed
George, grasping the idea; “but we can’t drink the river, you know!”
“No; but
you can drink some of it,” replied the old fellow. “It’s what I’ve
drunk for the last fifteen years.”
George
told him that his appearance, after the course, did not seem a sufficiently
good advertisement for the brand; and that he would prefer it out of a pump.
We got
some from a cottage a little higher up. I daresay that was only
river water, if we had known. But we did not know, so it was all
right. What the eye does not see, the stomach does not get upset over.
We tried
river water once, later on in the season, but it was not a success. We
were coming down stream, and had pulled up to have tea in a backwater near
Windsor. Our jar was empty, and it was a case of going without our tea or
taking water from the river. Harris was for chancing it. He said it
must be all right if we boiled the water. He said that the various germs
of poison present in the water would be killed by the boiling. So we
filled our kettle with Thames backwater, and boiled it; and very careful we
were to see that it did boil.
We had
made the tea, and were just settling down comfortably to drink it, when George,
with his cup half-way to his lips, paused and exclaimed:
“What’s
that?”
“What’s what?”
asked Harris and I.
“Why
that!” said George, looking westward.
Harris and
I followed his gaze, and saw, coming down towards us on the sluggish current, a
dog. It was one of the quietest and peacefullest dogs I have ever
seen. I never met a dog who seemed more contented—more easy in its
mind. It was floating dreamily on its back, with its four legs stuck up
straight into the air. It was what I should call a full-bodied dog, with
a well-developed chest. On he came, serene, dignified, and calm, until he
was abreast of our boat, and there, among the rushes, he eased up, and settled
down cosily for the evening.
George
said he didn’t want any tea, and emptied his cup into the water. Harris
did not feel thirsty, either, and followed suit. I had drunk half mine,
but I wished I had not.
I asked
George if he thought I was likely to have typhoid.
He said:
“Oh, no;” he thought I had a very good chance indeed of escaping it.
Anyhow, I should know in about a fortnight, whether I had or had not.
We went up
the backwater to Wargrave. It is a short cut, leading out of the
right-hand bank about half a mile above Marsh Lock, and is well worth taking,
being a pretty, shady little piece of stream, besides saving nearly half a mile
of distance.
Of course,
its entrance is studded with posts and chains, and surrounded with notice
boards, menacing all kinds of torture, imprisonment, and death to everyone who
dares set scull upon its waters—I wonder some of these riparian boors don’t
claim the air of the river and threaten everyone with forty shillings fine who
breathes it—but the posts and chains a little skill will easily avoid; and as
for the boards, you might, if you have five minutes to spare, and there is
nobody about, take one or two of them down and throw them into the river.
Half-way
up the backwater, we got out and lunched; and it was during this lunch that
George and I received rather a trying shock.
Harris
received a shock, too; but I do not think Harris’s shock could have been
anything like so bad as the shock that George and I had over the business.
You see,
it was in this way: we were sitting in a meadow, about ten yards from the
water’s edge, and we had just settled down comfortably to feed. Harris
had the beefsteak pie between his knees, and was carving it, and George and I
were waiting with our plates ready.
“Have you
got a spoon there?” says Harris; “I want a spoon to help the gravy with.”
The hamper
was close behind us, and George and I both turned round to reach one out.
We were not five seconds getting it. When we looked round again, Harris
and the pie were gone!
It was a
wide, open field. There was not a tree or a bit of hedge for hundreds of
yards. He could not have tumbled into the river, because we were on the
water side of him, and he would have had to climb over us to do it.
George and
I gazed all about. Then we gazed at each other.
“Has he
been snatched up to heaven?” I queried.
“They’d
hardly have taken the pie too,” said George.
There
seemed weight in this objection, and we discarded the heavenly theory.
“I suppose
the truth of the matter is,” suggested George, descending to the commonplace
and practicable, “that there has been an earthquake.”
And then
he added, with a touch of sadness in his voice: “I wish he hadn’t been carving
that pie.”
With a
sigh, we turned our eyes once more towards the spot where Harris and the pie
had last been seen on earth; and there, as our blood froze in our veins and our
hair stood up on end, we saw Harris’s head—and nothing but his head—sticking bolt
upright among the tall grass, the face very red, and bearing upon it an
expression of great indignation!
George was
the first to recover.
“Speak!”
he cried, “and tell us whether you are alive or dead—and where is the rest of
you?”
“Oh, don’t
be a stupid ass!” said Harris’s head. “I believe you did it on purpose.”
“Did
what?” exclaimed George and I.
“Why, put
me to sit here—darn silly trick! Here, catch hold of the pie.”
And out of
the middle of the earth, as it seemed to us, rose the pie—very much mixed up
and damaged; and, after it, scrambled Harris—tumbled, grubby, and wet.
He had
been sitting, without knowing it, on the very verge of a small gully, the long
grass hiding it from view; and in leaning a little back he had shot over, pie
and all.
He said he
had never felt so surprised in all his life, as when he first felt himself
going, without being able to conjecture in the slightest what had
happened. He thought at first that the end of the world had come.
Harris
believes to this day that George and I planned it all beforehand. Thus
does unjust suspicion follow even the most blameless for, as the poet says,
“Who shall escape calumny?”
Who,
indeed!
Pity about the pie, though. To be continued.